Jewel in Kakadu’s crown poised to finally reopen
One of Kakadu’s most renowned landmarks will reopen within weeks, after being closed for nearly six years due to a legal battle.
Gunlom Falls is the jewel in the crown of Kakadu National Park.
This culturally significant and visually exquisite site has drawn locals and visitors for its cascading 85-metre-tall waterfall and breathtaking pools, and has historically been one of the most popular swimming spots in the region.
The top natural infinity pool offers spectacular views across Kakadu National Park, while the bottom pool allows visitors to swim in the pristine water beneath the cascading waterfall surrounded by a tranquil sandy beach.
But visitors haven’t been banned from a dip in the pristine pools or taking photos at the site featured in the 1986 cult classic Crocodile Dundee since it closed in 2019. This is about to change with the magnificent falls set to reopen to the public during the 2025 dry season.
Kakadu-born owner of Lord Safaris Sab Lord has more than 30 years of experience running private tours across Australia’s Top End. He collaborates with local Aboriginal guides and emphasises the importance of visiting the area for locals and overseas visitors who want to explore its rich culture and natural beauty.
“Normally, Gunlom Falls is always on my private itineraries because it’s such a beautiful location. It’s one of the most unique and exciting places to visit in Kakadu,” he said.
It’s also an important cultural site for the local Jawoyn people.
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“Gunlom is an important place for Jawoyn. This land holds stories about our culture, law, and our history. It is just as important for Jawoyn today as it was in Buwurr times (the Dreamtime),” senior traditional owner and Kakadu National Park board of management chair Ryan Barrowei said.
“Our most powerful ancestors, Bulajang, still reside on Jawoyn Country today. According to the traditional owners, Bulla – a spirit so powerful, they compare it to Armageddon – rests at Gunlom Falls, at the base of sickness country.”
The sunset reflected in the water of the top pool. Photo: Tourism Australia
Why is Gunlom Falls closed?
In 2019, Parks Australia began construction to re-align a walking track. It was designed to improve access and safety for visitors to the iconic top pools of Gunlom Falls, but in doing so, it exposed a sacred Jawoyn men’s site to the public and damaged the area. The area was closed at the request of the traditional owners.
Plans for the walkway’s design deviated from what the traditional owners had improved and had gone ahead without an authority certificate under the Northern Territory Aboriginal Sacred Sites Act 1989 (NT).
The Act is integral to protecting Aboriginal culture and heritage in the Northern Territory, and prohibits a “person” from carrying out work on or using a “sacred site” without authority.
The Aboriginal Areas Protection Authority charged the Director of National Parks with an offence under the Act, leading to the dispute going to court.
In September 2022, the Full Court of the Supreme Court of the Northern Territory rejected the case, ruling at the time that the DNP was immune from liability over sacred site damage.
In 2023, the AAPA successfully appealed the decision in the High Court, and the current DNP pleaded guilty. The current DNP, Djungan man Ricky Archer, is the first Indigenous person to hold this position and while the damage was done before his tenure, he apologised to the traditional owners.
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In 2024, in a unanimous decision, the Full Court of the Supreme Court of the Northern Territory imposed a $200,000 fine for the damage.
The case highlights the importance of acknowledging Aboriginal land rights and serves as a reminder to travellers to be respectful when visiting sacred sites. Northern Land Council chair Matthew Ryan said in a powerful statement at last year’s hearing that “AAPA and the traditional owners have worked really hard over the last five years to recognise Gunlom as a sacred place. Now we can all look to the future of caring for this incredible place”.
Gunlom Falls is projected to reopen in the dry season. Photo: AAP
When will Gunlom Falls reopen?
The traditional owners are keen for the falls to reopen and Kakadu National Park has confirmed they will be open in time for the 2025 dry season in May.
“We welcome visitors to Gunlom and ask them to come and learn about our Country and show respect while here by staying on marked tracks and following safety directions.”
When is the best time to visit Gunlom Falls?
The best time to visit will be in the dry season (May to October), when there are better hiking conditions, minimal flooding, and clear, calm waters.
Sab said the area had few mosquitoes and was slightly cooler due to its distance from the coast, with temperatures a couple of degrees lower.
How to get to Gunlom Falls
Visitors can drive from Darwin, which takes about three hours via the Stuart and Arnhem highways.
For those who prefer not to do a self-drive or would like a more immersive experience, tours like Sab’s are a great way to gain insight into the area and its history and cultural significance and hear directly from First Nations people.
The nearest accommodation is about a two-hour drive away at Cooinda Lodge, so the spacious public campground equipped with hot showers and flushing toilets is a popular choice.
This article first appeared in Australian Traveller. Read the original here
