A much-loved chef breathes new life into an old primary school in the Barossa Valley that has sat dormant for three decades. The result is sublime.
Life can be hectic. Rushing from one task to the next, juggling the mental load with physical loads (laundry; groceries; small children) and work hours with school hours and deadlines and appointments and did we forget to eat breakfast again?
Then you step into a space like Staġuni, and all the pieces fall into place. Chef Clare Falzon’s first restaurant reimagines a former classroom of the old Marananga Primary School in the Barossa Valley, which had sat vacant for three decades. The prime patch of land on palm tree-lined Seppeltsfield Road was bought in late 2023 by a group of like-minded creatives, who are transforming the site as a food and arts precinct. Nosey around and you might find Goldie Pottery Studio owner Aleshia hosting an intimate clay workshop; dahlias in bloom at The Hidden Flower Farm or independent producers at New Wave Wines showcasing their drops.
For those following Falzon’s journey, the restaurant’s opening is an anticipated one. The 32-year-old Angaston local made a name for herself at nearby award-winning fine diner Hentley Farm in the six years to 2023 (she became executive chef in 2020) and, prior to that, worked in Michelin star restaurants across Europe.
“I had the idea that I wanted to do something for myself, but I didn’t know that it would be a restaurant,” says Falzon, originally from Sydney. “Then, five years ago, I built up this concept in my mind, and as I evolved that idea grew as well.”
Classroom walls have been repainted in calming shades of sage green; study desks swapped for dining tables. Blackboard scrawls are in the form of wines by the glass and printed menus resemble handwritten notes on a lined worksheet. The latter is a sweet touch to an understatedly elegant space that makes you feel like you can just … breathe.
If Falzon is the teacher, then the lesson is in her cooking: confident, not complicated. Inspired by her Maltese heritage (her father, uncle and grandparents migrated after WWII) and travels across all seven continents, the menu is a symphony of familiar flavours with elements of surprise. “Being in the middle of the Mediterranean, with North Africa down the bottom and … Sicily above, Malta is this really unique culture,” she says. “They speak an ancient dialect of Arabic but they’re so close to Italy.”
Take the obż biż-żejt, which can be likened to the Italian bruschetta or the Spanish pan con tomate. Here, the spongy focaccia-style bread is served with a summer-lovin’ medley of finely chopped tomatoes and capers bathed in olive oil – scoop it onto the bread with gluttonous glee.
Pickled baby octopus, cherry tomatoes and pickled peppers. Photograph Jessica Galletly
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Pickled baby octopus, aromatic and sharp, will wake up the taste buds faster than the slam of a headmaster’s ruler. The tender, bite-sized pieces are balanced on the plate with cooling yoghurt, crisp celery and sweet cherry tomatoes (you’ll want to save some bread to mop up the tangy, yoghurty juices). Chunks of sumac-spiked zucchini, meanwhile, is a humble side to share, pan-fried and served with yoghurt and honey I’d love a little more of.
Among the selection of four mains is a memorable pink snapper, caught off the Limestone Coast. The beautifully cooked fillet is perched proudly atop a jumble of summer greens that are a delight to eat: silky slices of zucchini, crisp green beans and snow peas, all glistening in an aromatic pool of browned butter. Pops of salted lemon, hinting at Malta’s place in the middle of the Med, is the culinary equivalent of dotting the i’s and crossing the t’s. Perfection.
Shredded chicken salad, a hit for the restaurant in its early days, has remained on the menu for the warmer months. Tossed with shards of cucumber, herbs and chunky crunchy crumbs, it’s texturally pleasing but the punchy South East Asian-vibing spices and sesame rebel against our other dishes.
For sweets, Falzon’s “fig frozen yoghurt” will be the best extra-curricular activity you’ve ever signed up for. Topped with oceanic waves of crisp filo, the set disc hides a jammy fig at its heart which, together with a base of honey, toasted walnuts and professor’s touch of lemon thyme, elevates this sweet-enough dessert to something truly special.
Hours pass, and we don’t look at the time once. Staġuni is the destination we didn’t know we needed: a place to leave homework at home, take a seat at Falzon’s table and enjoy true, humble hospitality.
Chef: Clare Falzon
Cuisine: Contemporary; Maltese
Drinks: Champion local winemakers, plus international drops
Cost: Smaller dishes $9-$26, mains $28-$75 (steak).
Hot take: A delicious place to unwind. Go.
Must try: Pickled octopus; Fig frozen yoghurt
457 Seppeltsfield Rd, Marananga
0401 943 223
staguni.com.au
Open: Thursday dinner (set menu); Fri-Mon lunch; Barrio snacks on the verandah Fri-Mon 4pm-6pm
This article first appeared in the April 2025 issue of SALIFE magazine.
